Controlling a Solenoid Valve from an Arduino. Updated.

A very short post I made sometime ago has been more popular that it should have been. It wasn’t particularly detailed and it was in desperate need of an update. So here is the update, this time giving more details and adding mosfets.

 
Arduinos are limited in the current and voltage they can supply. A typical 5V Arduino can provide 5V and 3.3v at a maximum 40mA from a single pin. 40mA is the maximum and ideally the current draw should be kept to around 20mA. 20mA is fine for a LED but not so good for motors, solenoid vales or long strings of RGB LEDs. For these we need a separate power supply and a way of controlling it.

One of the problems many beginners have is the Arduino does not give a warning when another device wants more power than it can supply, it simply tries to provide the current the device wants. This leads to over heating and mini explosions (or at least a dead Arduino and the smell of burnt plastic).

In this post I am using DC voltage solenoid valves only. Valves that use AC have very different requirements and the below does not apply. Most DC solenoid valves tend to use a voltage any where from 6v up and 12V and 24V are very common. The one I am using below is 24v. The Arduino cannot handle these voltages and so cannot (or should not) be connected directly to the valve. Instead, we use another device as a middleman, one that can accept the 5v signal from the Arduino as a control signal and also handle the higher voltage and current required by the valve. There are various different devices that can fulfil this role. I am using transistors. The Arduino controls the transistor and the transistor controls the valve. A simple way of thinking about this is we are using the transistor as a switch. The Arduino is controlling the switch and the switch is controlling the valve.

There are many transistors you can use and you pick one depending on the voltage and current you need to control. Here I am using the good old TIP120 and the IRFZ44N mosfet. Why these 2 devices? Because they are what I have. They were purchased sometime ago purely because they are suitable for use with 5v Arduinos.

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Arduino Serial Part 4: ASCII data and using markers to separate data

In part 3 we sent and received single characters to control LEDs using a fairly simple technique. If all you need is to remotely turn a few things on and off then this method is probably the best. It is simple, easy to program, and reliable. Sometimes though single characters are not enough and we need to use more complex commands or we may want to send sensor data that comprises more than one character.

In this post I look at a few different techniques for sending complex data and commands; starting with functions that are built in the Arduino language and moving to our own functions that, IMHO, perform better and allow for better code.

 

Multiple Characters

A common mistake a lot of beginners make is to test data before you have it. When receiving more than one character via serial, it is easy to assume that all the data arrives at one time. It does not. When a device sends “HELLO” it is sent one character at a time and received one character at a time. The receiving device then has to put all the characters together to form the word “HELLO”. By Arduino standards serial is very slow and the Arduino is capable of performing thousands of tasks in the time it takes to receive all the characters. This means if you are not careful your code can start checking the received data before you have actually received it.

Another problem I have seen is thinking a serial.read reads all the available data. It doesn’t. It reads one character or byte only and it is up to you to read all the data and put it together.

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Arduino Serial Part 3: Getting started with serial communication

In the last post I briefly talked about different data formats and how I recommend keeping things as simple as possible. With this is mind for a first project let’s create a simple blinking LED. We will have one Arduino controlling an LED on a second Arduino. Controls to turn the LED on or off will be sent via serial from the first Arduino to the second Arduino. This is as basic as it gets. Arduino Blink by remote control. The LED has only two states so simple control codes can be used and to start I am using 1 of on and 0 for off.

In these examples I am using Arduino Nanos but any kind of Arduino can be used and for this series I am using Arduino to Arduino communication. The techniques are exactly the same for any UART to UART device. For example, in Arduino to Arduino by Bluetooth I use exactly the same serial communication techniques wirelessly over Bluetooth.

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Arduino Serial Part 2: Serial Data

In the previous post I went through the basics of using serial on an Arduino and ran through the different commands. In this post I want to talk about different types of serial data and some of the things you should consider before starting to create code. The type of communication you use or can use will depend largely on the project but there are things that can be considered before starting.

  • Type of communication? 1-way or 2-way
  • Type of data? Values or strings? Simple or complex?
  • How much data and how frequent? A couple of values every few seconds or a high rate continuous stream.
  • Is the data critical? Must you be sure you receive all the data or can you afford to lose some of it.

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Arduino Serial Part 1

Updated 26.01.2019

Here we look at using serial communication on the Arduino. Serial UART is one of the various ways an Arduino can communicate with other devices. This includes a host PC and using the Arduino serial monitor is communicating with the PC using serial UART.

Arduino Serial Monitor
End Of Line Characters
Formatting output using the tab command
How fast is serial
Different Arduino Serials
   Hardware Serial/Serial
   SoftwareSerial
   AltSoftSerial
   NeoSWSerial
Using a software UART and usb adapter to talk to a PC
Buffer Size
Serial Commands

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Arduino with RN4870/1

RN4870_01_800The RN4870/1 is a small (only 12mm wide) BLE module from Microchip. What makes this a little bit special (when compared to modules like the HM-10) are the advanced features that allow you to create your own services and characteristics. This opens up true BLE functionality. It has been available for a while now and I am surprised it is not more popular in the hobby area.

The RN4870 is very different to common hobbyist modules like the HM-10, AT-09, and BT05 and if this is all you have used you may need a refresher on BLE. Especially if you want to use your own services and characteristics.

This is a first look / getting started guide that I will add to as I get time.
Latest update: May 27, 2018

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Create A Bluetooth Joypad With App Inventor 2

BluetoothJoyPad_draftLayout_01_800Here we create a basic Classic Bluetooth joypad for use on an Android device to control a microprocessor (Arduino) connected to a Bluetooth module. The app is fairly simply. There are 2 screens; the first is the main control panel and the second is a connection page.

When the CONNECT button on the main screen is clicked the second screen is opened to allow the user to connect to a Bluetooth device. The direction buttons, when clicked, transmit codes to the Arduino.

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Switching Things On And Off With An Arduino

One of the first projects many people new to the Arduino do is blinking an LED and there many many guides on line. Unfortunately, many of the guides never go beyond the very basic first sketch. In this guide, I hope to help new users take the next step.

Besides the obvious fact that blinking an LED is cool in its own right it is a good exercise because switching an LED on and off is the same process for switching any digital device on and off. Once you can create the code to blink an LED you can create code to turn anything on and off. Of course, you do not need to control an LED, you can use the same methods to do almost anything that is controlled in the same way. For example, I use similar techniques when setting up remote controls using Bluetooth and wifi connections and instead of setting a pin state I send control codes.

switchingThings_GIF04

Polling vs interrupts
Connecting Arduino pins directly to vcc
Polling. Example 01: Very simply press for on, release for off
Polling. Example 02: Press for on, release for off. Slightly refined
Polling. Example 03: Toggle switch
Polling. Example 04: Multiple states from a single push button switch
Polling. Example 05: Start and stop an action
Part-2-Interrupt-Techniques
Interrupt. Example 01: Turning an LED on and off
Interrupt. Example 02: Turning an LED on and off with debounce
Downloads

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HC-05 (ZG-B23090W) Bluetooth 2.0 EDR modules

HC-05 - ZG1643 - B23090W_001_800The HC-05 (ZG-B23090W) uses a regular Bluetooth smd module based on the csr BC417 with a MX 29LV800CBXBI-70G flash memory chip. It appears to be using the HC/Wavesen 2010 firmware and a Google search for “HC-05 2.0-20100601″ should give you plenty to read, including some of my older posts.

 
I have received a few comments about HC-06 and HC-05 modules that use a new breakout board (new to me at least). When I received the first comment I hadn’t seen these modules, by the time I had received the 4th or 5th comment the modules were all over Taobao so I decided to order a few (2 x HC-06 and 2 x HC05). I have no real use for these except to see if they are different to previous versions.

 

HC-05s

HC-05s are Bluetooth 2.0/2.1 EDR devices that have a serial UART layer on top of the Bluetooth. The UART layer makes them easy to use but hides the Bluetooth functions from the user. This is good if all you want is to make 2 things talk to each other. The HC-05 has two modes of operation; AT command mode and transmission mode. When in AT command mode all data received over the serial UART connection is treated as a command, and when in transmission mode, all data received over the serial UART connection is treated as data.

When in communication mode, if there is an active connection the data is broadcast to the connected device. If not connected, the data, disappears in to some mysterious void.

The HC-05 can operate as either a slave or master device. Slave devices cannot initiate connections, they can only accept them. Master devices can initiate and (depending on the actual module) sometimes accept them. If you want to use the module with a mobile device such as an Android phone, the phone will be the master device and so the HC-05 will need to be the slave. If you want to link two HC-05s, one will need to be a master and the other one a slave.

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HC-06 (ZG-B23090W) Bluetooth 2.0 EDR modules

HC-06 - ZG 1643 - B23090W_001_800The HC-06 (ZG-B23090W) uses a regular smd Bluetooth module based on the csr BC417 chip with a MX 29LV800CBXBI-70G flash memory chip. The firmware is well documented and a Google search for “HC-06 linvor V1.8″ should get you more than a few hits.

I have received a few comments about HC-06 and HC-05 modules that use a new breakout board (new to me at least). When I received the first comment I hadn’t seen these modules, by the time I had received the 4th or 5th comment the modules were all over Taobao so I decided to order a few (2 x HC-06 and 2 x HC05). I have no real use for these except to see if they are different to previous versions.

 
The HC-06 is a Bluetooth 2.0/2.1 EDR device that has a serial UART layer on top of the Bluetooth. The UART layer makes them extremely easy to use but hides the Bluetooth functions from the user. This is good if all you want is to make 2 things talk to each other.

The HC-06 has 2 modes of operation; AT mode and transmission mode. When the modules are first powered on they go in to AT mode. Here AT commands can be entered via the wired serial connection. After a connection has been made the modules go in to transmission mode. Here everything the modules receives via the wired serial connection is sent to the connected device. At commands cannot be entered again until the connection is broken.

HC-06s are slave only modules and require a master device to make a connection. Slave devices cannot initiate a connection which means you cannot link 2 HC-06s together. The master module is the HC-05 which can be either slave or master. Since the price for the HC-05 and the HC-06 is basically the same I would suggest buying HC-05s and not HC-06s.

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Arduino with HD44780 based Character LCDs

Updated on 2017.04.29.

Introduction
Arduino Libraries
Parallel Interface: Getting Started with a JHD162A 16×2 display
I2C Interface: Getting Started with a J204A 20×4 display with I2C daughter board
Creating custom characters

Introduction

HD44780 compatible LCDs come in many shapes and sizes and two very common ones are the 16×2 and 20×4 characters. Although most screens come with a back light some do not. And although the original interface is parallel some screens come with an I2C adapter/daughter board pre attached (you can buy the I2C adapters separately).

A 16x2 and a 20x4 character LCD display

A 16×2 and a 20×4 character LCD display

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Arduino with Optocouplers

There are many types of optocoupler and you chose one based on the requirements of your circuit. My intention was to create a automatic shutter trigger for my Canon camera, so the circuit was a 5V Arduino and a Canon 40D which has about 3.2V on the shutter release connections. Due to the relatively low voltages there are many suitable optocouplers to pick from. I already had a Fairchild 4N26 so this is the one I used.

4N26

4N26

Optocouplers are digital switches. They work by using an LED emitter paired with a photo detector transistor. This means they can be used to allow one circuit to switch a separate circuit without having any electrical contact between the two. Basically, if you put a current through pins 1 and 2 and light the LED the photo detector transistor detects the light from the LED and allows a current to flow through pins 5 and 4. No current on pins 1 and 2 means current does not pass through pins 5 and 4.

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HM-10 Bluetooth 4 BLE Modules

Updated 2017-11-14.
Since I first posted about the HM-10 the firmware has been update several times and some of the commands have changed. Therefore, I decided to redo the guide. For this update I am using modules with firmware 5.49 (regular) except the one I am using for the firmware update guide which started with v5.40 and becomes 5.47.

Firmware version 5.49 is now available from the Jinan Huamao website. There are 2 versions; regular and long name. The regular firmware does not have an updated read me so I don’t know what changes, if any, have been made. The long name firmware adds, you guessed it, long names. Device names can now be up to 29 characters. At the same time the iBeacon function and the ANCS function have been removed. Unless you desperately need long names I suggest you stay with the regular firmware.

2017-07-26 Firmware 5.50 now available.
2017-09.01 Firmware 6.01 now available (bug fixes, no new commands)
2017-10.xx Firmware 6.03 now available Extended the CO command. Added AT+MPIO (multi PIO control). See the readme file for details. The manual has not been updated at this time (Nov 2017).

2018-03-24 Jinan Huamao support say that the HM-10 (original ones, not copies) are compatible with Android 8. I do not have Android 8 so have not tried and cannot confirm.
They have now added a comment on their website saying the HM-10 works with Android 8.

2018-03 HM-10s with firmware V605 are now available but Jinan Huamao are not releasing the firmware. Not sure if this is just for now or permanently. V603 is the latest firmware available for download.

It appears that Jinan Huamao are cracking down on fakes. Apart from not releasing the latest firmware the latest HM-10s have “HM-10″ screen printed on the PCB.

Image taken from the Jinan Huamao website

Image taken from the Jinan Huamao website

2019-02 Firmware version 7.02 now available. The download link says V701 but the file says 702.
Note that in V700 onwards:
– the default baud rate change to 115200.
– accepts commands with and without line endings.
– better compatibility for other BLE modules. See the readme file that comes with the download.

 
Introduction
Bluetooth 4 BLE
HM-10 Services and Characteristics
Get Started With the HM-10
Getting an Arduino talking to the HM-10
HM-10 AT Commands: Using the Arduino’s serial monitor to talk to the HM-10
Scanning for other HM-10s
Arduino to Arduino using HM-10s
HM-10 to HM-10: Turning an LED on and off
HM-10 Programmable Pins
HM-10 Stand-alone MODE 2 and Controlling LEDs
HM-10 Stand-alone: Remote Light Sensor
HM-10: Add a second Custom Characteristic
Using the HM-10 with non-HM-10 modules (not fully working)
HM-10 as an iBeacon
HM-10 Updating the firmware
HM-10 Downloads

 
 

 

Introduction

The HM-10 is a small 3.3v SMD Bluetooth 4.0 BLE module based on the TI CC2540 or CC2541 Bluetooth SOC (System On Chip). The HM-10 is made by Jinan Huamao and is one of many Bluetooth devices they produce including the HM-11 which is operationally the same as the HM-10 but has a smaller footprint with fewer pins broken out.

There are 2 versions of the HM-10; the HM-10C and the HM-10S
HM-10C-HM-10S

The HM-10C does not have the pads along the bottom (the usb connections) and has 26 pads instead of 34 which makes it a little cheaper to produce. There may be other differences (such as the type of crystal used) due to the date of manufacture. Operationally the two are the same though.

HM-10 Basic specs

  • +2.5v to +3.3v
  • Requires up to 50mA
  • Uses around 9mA when in an active state
  • Use 50-200uA when asleep
  • RF power: -23dbm, -6dbm, 0dbm, 6dbm
  • Bluetooth version 4.0 BLE
  • Default baud rate pre firmware V700 is 9600
  • Default baud rate firmware V700 and up is 115200
  • Default PIN is 000000
  • Default name is HMSoft
  • Based on the CC2540 or the CC2541 chip

The latest HM-10s all appear to the the CC2541 chip. This is the same as the CC2540 except it is lower power and has a shorter range. The CC254x is based on the 8051 and runs at 32MHz.

The HM-10 is has become a very popular Bluetooth 4 BLE module for use with the Arduino. In part due to the standard UART serial connection that makes it fairly straight forward to connect to an Arduino. The UART layer is a good thing and a bad thing, it allows ease of use but it hides the BLE layer so you have no control over the actual BLE side of things. The HM-10 is Bluetooth version 4.0 only. This means it cannot connect to Bluetooth 2/2.1 modules such as the HC-06 and HC-05.

The HM-10 is controlled via AT commands which are sent over the serial UART connection. There are a host of commands, some simple, some more complex, and these are covered later.

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HC-06 hc01.comV2.0

HC-06_hc01.com_02_800

ZS-040_HC-06_hc01.comV2.0

The latest zs-040 HC-06 modules have an updated firmware, hc01.comV2.0. This firmware has the following defaults:
– baud rate = 9600
– password = 1234
– nl/cr line endings not required.
– AT commands are required to be in upper case
– Firmware version = hc01.comV2.0
– Name = HC-06
– No parity
– SLAVE mode

Since the Bluetooth hardware is the same as the previous zs-040 HC-06s the Bluetooth specs are also the same. Bluetooth 2.0 EDR, SSP.
These use a slightly different BT module than the other zs-040 boards and there is a blue LED at the top left of the daughter board.
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Arduino to Arduino by Bluetooth

Updated 12.06.2016: Added example 2

In the Connecting 2 Arduinos by Bluetooth using a HC-05 and a HC-06: Pair, Bind, and Link post I explained how to connect a HC-05 to a HC-06 so that when powered they automatically made a connection. Here we look at using that connection to get Arduinos talking over Bluetooth. Before continuing you need to have the Arduinos and BT modules set up as per the previous post. Here I am using 2 HC-05s. One in master mode the other in slave mode. The setup process for the slave mode HC-05 is the same as the HC-06 in the previous post.

Arduino2ArdionoBT_Breadboards_01_1600

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